Although most people understandably believe that Paris is the rightful capital of French gastronomy, the reality is altogether different. In fact, this distinction belongs to the city of Lyon, formerly called Lugdunum.
The Atmosphere
Lyon is renowned for its ‘bouchons’, which are casual eateries where you can enjoy traditional and reputable local cuisine. As one of the foodiest cities in the world, it is not surprising that Tokyo has its very own ‘bouchon’ named Lugdunum. And you can find it right where you would expect it to be — in Kagurazaka, affectionately called Little France by locals. At first sight, Lugdunum looks unassuming, but don’t let its appearance fool you! It is a 1 Michelin star restaurant and the chef and owner Christophe Paucod clearly doesn’t intend to let that star go.
The Food
My friend and I went to Lugdunum for lunch. They usually have four different lunch course menus available, but due to the pandemic they had restricted their offerings to two options only: the three course meal Menu du Déjeuner (2,950 yen) and the five course meal Menu Dégustation (6,950 yen). We went with the most affordable one and were not disappointed!
Smoked Yellowtail, Eggplants, Avocado Purée, Tomatoes and Rice Crackers
Our meal started strong with a fabulous starter. Not only was it pleasant to look at, but it was also very flavorful. The yellowtail carpaccio was extremely tender and blended extremely well with the avocado purée. The tomatoes and eggplants added some substance and a refreshing note. The dish was topped with some rice crackers that brought the perfect amount of crunchiness to counterbalance the softness of the other ingredients. This fresh starter was perfect for the season and it opened our appetites up!
Chicken served with Potato Purée, Mushroom Tapenade and Peas
I was not as impressed by the main as I was with the starter, but it was also very well done. The chicken was cooked to perfection, but I could have used a little more of the broth. I enjoyed the natural flavors of the potato purée and the peas, and I was absolutely delighted with the rich taste of the mushroom tapenade. It was a true wonder and paired really well with the meat.
Fromage Frais Sherbet, Grapefruit and Orange with Mint Leaves
The dessert was simple but perfect. Just like the starter, it was very fresh and we could not have wished for anything better suited for the season. The flavors worked very well together. The grapefruit and the orange were sweet, and the iced fromage frais (cheese made from skimmed milk) was a great alternative to the usual ice cream, which often feels heavier on the stomach. The fresh mint leaves added extra freshness and flavor to it. This dessert was an excellent last note for this meal.
The Drinks
The wine was on the expensive side. I went with the Pot Lyonnais, which is a type of wine bottle used in a ‘bouchon’. It was the cheapest wine at 900 yen a glass and 3,600 yen for a carafe. I was served an excellent dry Chardonnay with refreshing fruity notes. It paired fantastically well with the starter.
Chartreuse
If you want to finish off with a digestive, I recommend you try some Chartreuse. I don’t recall seeing it anywhere else in Tokyo but in L’Amitié in Takadanobaba, so Lugdunum is one of the few spots where you can have it. This yellow (or sometimes green) liqueur is very sweet and has a nice herbal taste. I would not trade it for my regular Calvados, but it’s a must try!
All the prices included in this article are excluding taxes.
Lugdunum
Opening hours: closed on Mondays and on the 1st & 3rd Tuesday of the month. Open from 11:00 to 15:30 (lunch) and from 18:00 to 23:30 (dinner)
Website: click here
Address: 4 Chome-3-7 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 162-0825
Telephone: 03-6426-1201
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