As a newcomer to Canada, I had been looking forward to trying Indigenous cuisine. I expected to find plentiful of specialized restaurants in Vancouver, but to my surprise, options were very scarce. Salmon n’ Bannock on West Broadway was pretty much the only establishment for a seat-in meal, so the choice was quickly made.
The Atmosphere
Salmon n’ Bannock is a modern Indigenous bistro, meaning that it offers modern take on indigenous classics. The inside of the restaurant is rather small so it has an intimate feel, but the setting is not fancy. The walls are covered with aboriginal artworks, and Indigenous music is played through speakers to create a more authentic atmosphere. If it wasn’t for these details, you would not be able to tell that the restaurant serves Indigenous cuisine.
The Food
Although Salmon n’ Bannock is a bistro, the price point is on the expensive side. During our visit, they had a set menu — which seemed to be a good deal, but my partner and I wanted to freely explore our options, so we went à la carte.
Salmon is one of the first things that comes to my mind when I think of Indigenous food, so the Salmon Sampler felt like the right way to start our meal. The salmon was served three different ways: candied, smoked and as a mousse.
Salmon Sampler ($20)
The mousse was my favorite of the three. The texture was rather creamy and it was served with a crispy algae and some bannock (Indigenous bread) crackers. The bright pink-orange color of the smoked salmon was a pledge of its freshness. My teeth went through it like a hot knife through butter. Finally, the candied salmon was nicely coated with maple syrup and pepper. It was the right amount of sweetness for this bite-sized appies. This sampler was a strong start!
Game Sampler ($25)
In full disclosure, I did not try any of the Game Sampler. I wish I had, but the staff just brought it to our table by mistake. Luckily, I had just enough time to snatch a picture. The least I can say is that it looked tasty… I’ll definitely order it next time!
Pemmican Mousse ($15)
I loved the Pemmican Mousse. The texture was not airy — as I would have expected, but the spread was still fantastic. The dried bison meat was mixed with cream cheese. The gamey flavors were rather subtle, but the sweet aftertaste of the sage-infused blueberries blended in very well.
Bison Pot Roast ($40)
For my main, I ordered the Bison Pot Roast. The meat was so tender that I didn’t even need a knife to cut it. However, it’s a good thing they added horse radish because the meat was bland. I expected an extremely powerful and flavorful game meat, but it genuinely felt like I was eating a regular Bœuf Bourguignon. Overall, I enjoyed this dish, but for $40 I expected much more.
Sausage Dinner ($32)
The Sausage Dinner was a better pick. The sausages were flavorful and cooked with some berries, which added some tasty sweet notes. The veggies were identical to the Bison Pot Roast — on point.
Signature Bannock and Butter (included with the mains)
It would have been a blasphemy to not eat bannock because it is such a staple in Indigenous cuisine. It was a first for me and, although I wasn’t very impressed, I’m glad I tried it.
Ice Cream Topped with Fresh Berries ($6)
By the time we made it to dessert I was full, but I decided to squeeze it in. We ordered the Boozy Sundae, which I had been EXTREMELY looking forward to. Call it bad luck, we were served the Ice Cream Topped with Fresh Berries instead. I wish we had realized it before checking the bill. I kind of thought that something was off… Well, the ice cream was good, but not exceptional. To this day, I’m still a little upset about it.
Overall
Is Salmon ‘n Bannock a must-try?
Salmon n’ Bannock is pretty much the only place in Vancouver where you can eat some Indigenous cuisine. For this reason alone, I’d say that it’s worth a try.
Regarding the service, there is room for improvement. Our waitress was very nice but her explanations about the menu felt sometimes long. There was also a lot of confusion around the orders. They brought the wrong dishes to our table 3 times during the course of the meal…
That being said, the food was generally very good. I was disappointed by the Bison Pot Roast, but it wasn’t a turn off. Some dishes, like the Pemmican Mousse, were a nice discovery. If you are up for something different and that you don’t have a restricted budget, Salmon n’ Bannock is a good option for a nice evening out.
Salmon n’ Bannock
Opening hours: open everyday from 3pm to 9pm
Website: click here
Address: 1128 W Broadway #7, Vancouver, BC V6H 1G5
Telephone: (604) 568-8971
Note that prices and information featured in this article are subject to change.
