It was Sunday afternoon and I was pretty desperate. I spent my weekend trying to book a table somewhere decent for that very same night, and I was clearly out of luck. Through that ordeal, I learned that many restaurants on the island are closed on Sundays, and that I should plan things ahead if I want to have a nice dinner out. I was running out of time and options, so I resorted to book a table at Wind Cries Mary.
The Atmosphere
Wind Cries Mary is located in the heart of Victoria in Bastion Square. It looks totally unassuming and I must admit that when we got there, I second-guessed myself. But we were already in front of the restaurant and I had no B plan, so in we went.
Wind Cries Mary actually has a lovely backroom as well as a patio with a more intimate feel. Of course, all those seats had been reserved prior to my call so we sat in the front room, next to the bar counter. It was a little loud, but not to the point that we felt uncomfortable.
The Food
Anyway, we came in for the food, and I was willing to give Wind Cries Mary a chance. The menu is a little limited but it rotates every day. The plates are meant to be shared and the establishment prides itself on serving seasonal, fresh and local ingredients.
Vancouver Island Beets, Ricotta, Sour Cream, Balsamic ($16)
First we had the Vancouver Island Beets. And wow, they were amazing. The beets were fresh and cooked to perfection. The ricotta, sour cream and balsamic dressing worked fantastically well with it, and the hints of mint were bold yet not overpowering.
Ling Cod with Miso ($27)
Next, we had the miso-flavored ling cod. It was served on a bed of pickled cabbage and with a dash of yam purée. They did an amazing job with the fish. The flesh was flaky but firm. The miso flavoring complimented the mild taste of this fish very nicely.
Signature Fried Chicken, Pickles, Semolina, Honey Butter & Trio of Homemade Sauces ($26)
We carried on with the Signature Fried Chicken. The outside layer was crispy— but not oily, and the chicken was so juicy and tender that you would not believe it had been fried. The homemade pickles were big and juicy, and I really enjoyed the square-shaped semolina. The dish came with three homemade sauces: a jalapeno, a spicy mango and a regular hot sauce. The mango sauce was delicious and we bought a couple of bottles to bring back home.
Broccolini Parmesan ($14)
The broccolini were perfectly steamed and subtly but extremely well-flavored. The sprinkled parmesan was a nice topping.
Vancouver Island Cheeses, Honey, Nuts ($30)
The Vancouver Island Cheeses served with Raincoast Crisps were very enjoyable. The brie had a nice bite to it and the aged cheddar had a deep flavor. The honey and the candied nuts added a sweet touch and they were a great addition to this board.
The Desserts
Just like the rest of the menu, the dessert selection changes every day.
Chocolate Cake, Mousse, Ganache and Ice Cream
When the waiter mentioned the chocolate cake served with chocolate mousse, chocolate ganache and chocolate ice cream, it was music to my ears. Obviously, it was very rich and I would only recommend it if you can handle a lot of chocolate. The play with crunchy, foamy, creamy and firm textures was really well thought out.
Shortbread with Caramel and Pecans
The Shortbread with Caramel and Pecans was fantastic. Again, the different textures blended perfectly well together. The caramel sauce was delicious and not too sweet. It was poured over shortbread, pecans and whipped cream and the outcome was an extremely balanced dessert.
Fresh Homemade Cookies
The homemade cookies came literally straight out of the oven. There is something very comforting about freshly baked cookies. The chocolate chips were melty and runny, a wonder!
The Drinks
I started with the Black and Yellow cocktail and it was amazing. I don’t know why it was named like this — the drink had a lovely bright pink color, but the blackberry gin was a nice discovery.
Later on, we shared a bottle of BelColle Nebbiolo. It was a truly enjoyable medium-bodied wine with some nice cherry notes.
I was happy to see that Wind Cries Mary has a nice digestive list that features some Calvados.
Overall
Wind Cries Mary exceeded my expectations. All the dishes were perfectly executed and a lot of care was brought to the seasoning of each ingredient.
I think it is important to fully understand Wind Cries Mary‘s concept if you truly want to enjoy your meal at this establishment. Don’t go there expecting a fine dining experience. The restaurant serves simple but elevated dishes. Some of it is pretty much comfort food, but it is brought to an all new level thanks to some creative twists, as well as high quality and local ingredients.
I really need to add that the service at Wind Cries Mary was also perfect, and this is why I gladly give this establishment 5 stars. Our waiter — I should have asked for his name, was excellent. He was here without being here, checking on us regularly, without being verbally too present. It was definitely a meal to remember!
Wind Cries Mary
Opening hours: open every day from 4pm to 1am
Website: click here
Address: 45 Bastion Square, Victoria, BC V8W 1J1
Telephone: 250-590-8989
Note that prices and information featured in this article are subject to change.
