I have learned over the years that the expression ‘do not judge a book by its cover’ is perfectly suited to ramen restaurants. The most shabby places can turn out to be fantastic, while the cleanest counters can hide the blandest broths. Failing is part of the game when you’re trying to figure out ‘your type’ of ramen so I rarely go out of my way to try a specific ramen shop.
Now, if you’re not so much of an adventurer, or if you just want to get it right, the good news is that most reputed ramen restaurants are just a few clicks away. There are tons of rankings and information online to help you find your perfect bowl of ramen.
Yamaguchi in Waseda specializes in chicken ramen and it is ranked among Tokyo’s top 50 ramen by Japan Ramen Award. It has also been selected as a Bib gourmand for the past 6 years, and there are even rumors saying that it is only a matter of time until it receives one Michelin star. After putting off my visit for months, I decided to see for myself how good Michelin-level ramen could be.
There are only 8 counter seats at Yamaguchi, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a while before sitting down. Even though the cleanliness of the kitchen is not necessarily an indicator of how good the ramen is going to be, Yamaguchi’s kitchen and counters were sparkling clean. A well maintained place often means good hygiene standards, so it is always good news.
I went with their most popular and recommended item: the Special Chicken Ramen (1,380 yen). Watching the staff prepare it was quite entertaining. They worked as a duo, taking turns over the bowl to place each ingredient extremely meticulously. Each step and gesture followed a rigorous method and tempo. Yep, they clearly want that Michelin star!
Special Chicken Ramen (1,380 yen)
The ramen was quite subtle. The men (noodles) were served in a broth made of chicken oil and soy sauce. They were topped with chicken breast, braised pork shoulder and chicken wonton dumplings. There were also one egg and some bamboo shoots.
I absolutely loved the perfect softness of the noodles and the tasty chicken dumplings. The chicken meat was also very good and tender, but it came from a vacuum pack. Given the reputation of the restaurant, I assume that this is how they preserve the meat to bring out the best of it, but I admit it surprised me a little. The egg was extremely fresh — I had never seen such a bright orange yolk! The roasted pork and the bamboo shoots were nice, but there was nothing exceptional about them.
Overall
Quite frankly, I enjoyed the chicken ramen at Yamaguchi a lot but I would not say it is the best, or one of the best ramen that I have ever eaten. I tend to like richer and heavier broths — I’m a tonkotsu (pork bone broth) kind of girl — so it was too subtle for me. That being said, I can see why Yamaguchi is so popular, the quality is definitely there. Despite that, I am not quite sure it is enough to get that Michelin star.
If you like subtle and light ramen, Yamaguchi is probably a great match for you. I would not say that it is Tokyo’s best ramen, but if you happen to be in Waseda, give it a try!
Yamaguchi
Opening hours: closed on Mondays and on Sunday evenings. Open from 11:30 to 15:00 (lunch) and from 17:30 to 21:00 (dinner)
Website: click here
Address: 3 Chome-13-4 Nishiwaseda, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 169-0051
Telephone: 03-3204-5120
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